by Joseph Harris This chapter begins, as so many chapters of my life do, with my stepfather Bill Greene. Bill is the subject of his own document and his own deepening list of stories — he was my mother's second husband, married into our family in 1962, and was the most interesting man I have ever known. He gets a full chapter of his own. For Cinco de Mayo what matters is this: Bill brought Mexican food into a North Carolina kitchen at a moment when no one else in our part of

by Joseph Harris We came to Siena from the south, which is the wrong direction if you want an easy introduction to the city. Siena doesn't have a simple entry point. The ancient center was built for foot traffic and horses, not automobiles, and the Sienese have made no particular accommodation for the modern error of arriving by car. There are narrow one-way streets that go nowhere useful, surveillance cameras that record your mistakes, and a general architectural consensus t

Our journey brings us to Tuscany—a region that feels instantly familiar, even if you’ve never been. Known for its rolling hills, cypress-lined roads, and timeless countryside, Tuscany is home to cities like Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance, and Siena, where tradition still shapes daily life. It’s a place where art, history, and food are inseparable—where every meal feels grounded in something older, something lasting. A Culture Rooted in the Land Tuscany is often d

A love letter to Lombardy, and to Sharon, who let the bidding go just a little too far By Joseph Harris Every year, on a weekend in late summer, the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens does something quietly magical. It opens its gates to local wineries and restaurants, sets tables among the flowers and the fog, and invites the community to wander, taste, and give money to the hospital. The event is called Wine Song. It has been going on for thirty years, maybe more. It is the

This week, our Tour of Italy takes us to Lombardy, a region of contrasts, where grand cities meet alpine landscapes, and refined cuisine is shaped by both land and tradition. Home to Milan, Italy’s fashion and financial capital, Lombardy is often seen as modern and fast-paced. But beyond the city, the region opens into serene lakes like Lake Como and Lake Garda, rolling countryside, and mountain villages where culinary traditions remain deeply rooted and quietly preserved. A

This week, our Tour of Italy takes us to Liguria, a narrow ribbon of coastline known as the Italian Riviera, where mountains meet the sea and every meal feels touched by salt air and sunlight. Stretching along the northwest coast of Italy, Liguria is a place of quiet beauty, pastel villages, and a cuisine shaped by both land and water. Here, cooking is light yet deeply flavorful, built on herbs, olive oil, fresh seafood, and a reverence for simplicity. Where the Sea Meets the

A dedication to Beppe Gambetta, native son of Genoa by Joseph Harris There are evenings that arrange themselves without your permission — where the food, the music, and the company arrive in a combination so improbable that you spend the rest of your life wondering who organized it. Mine happened several years ago at a small private dinner on the Mendocino Coast, hosted by a friend who was sponsoring a local concert. The guests, I was told, included a couple of well-known gui

For Kirsten Powers, somewhere in Puglia By Joseph Harris Kirsten, I hear you found a trullo. Good. You always struck me as someone who understood that the best decisions look slightly irrational from the outside. Moving to the heel of Italy’s boot — that narrow, sun-hammered peninsula that juts into the Adriatic like an afterthought — is exactly the kind of move that makes complete sense once you’ve walked your own land, stood among your own olive trees, and tasted the bread.

Drive north from Verona and watch Italy slowly change its mind about itself. The vineyards shift from Corvina to Blauburgunder — which you may know as Pinot Noir, but they will correct you here, politely, as they correct everything. The architecture thickens, the roof pitches steepen against the weight of alpine snow, the signage becomes bilingual and then, quietly, more German than Italian. By the time you reach Bolzano — which they call Bozen — you have left the Mediterrane

This week, our Tour of Italy takes us to the sun-soaked region of Puglia, dubbed as the “heel” of Italy’s boot, where olive groves stretch for miles, the sea is never far away, and the cuisine is as honest as it is unforgettable. Pugliese cooking is rooted in simplicity, shaped by generations of farmers and fishermen who turned humble ingredients into deeply satisfying dishes. Here, food is not about excess but about making the most of what you have, and doing it beautifully.

This week, our Tour of Italy takes us to the beautiful region of Veneto in northeastern Italy—a place where mountains, countryside, and waterways come together to shape a rich and diverse culinary tradition. From the canals of Venice to its inland farms and vineyards, Veneto’s cuisine is deeply connected to both land and sea. Here, dishes are rooted in seasonality, history, and simplicity, offering flavors that are at once comforting, refined, and unmistakably Italian. A Dish

As part of our Tour of Italy series, we invite you to travel with us to Abruzzo —a rugged, soulful region often called “The Green Heart of Europe.” Tucked between the Apennine mountains and the Adriatic Sea, Abruzzo is a place of striking contrasts: wild landscapes, quiet villages, and a cuisine shaped by both land and tradition. This is not the Italy of grand feasts and elaborate techniques. This is something deeper, more rooted—where simplicity tells the story. Where Moun

Few ingredients capture the imagination quite like truffles. Earthy, aromatic, and unmistakably indulgent, truffles have long been prized in Italian cuisine as a symbol of simplicity elevated to something extraordinary. Just a shaving or two can transform a dish—adding depth, richness, and a sense of occasion. But what exactly are truffles, and why are they so special? What Are Truffles? Truffles are a type of underground fungus that grow in close relationship with the roots

Every year on St. Patrick's Day , people around the world dress in green, gather with friends, and celebrate Irish culture with festive food, music, and good cheer. What began as a religious feast day has grown into a global celebration full of colorful traditions. Here are seven interesting facts that might surprise you about this beloved holiday. 1. St. Patrick Wasn’t Actually Irish The man behind the holiday, Saint Patrick , was actually born in Roman Britain in the late 4

Fritto Misto / The Spruce Eats - Cara Cormack With more than 4,700 miles of coastline, it’s no surprise that seafood plays a starring role in Italian cuisine. From the rocky shores of Liguria to the sun-soaked islands of Sicily, each coastal region brings its own flavors, traditions, and techniques to the table. Italian seafood cooking is rooted in simplicity—fresh ingredients, minimal fuss, and a deep respect for the sea. Here’s a look at how seafood shapes the culinary iden

If you’ve ever traveled to Italy—or simply lingered long enough at an Italian café around sunset—you’ve likely witnessed the magic of aperitivo . It’s not just a pre-dinner drink. It’s a ritual. A pause. A way of shifting from the busyness of the day into the pleasure of the evening. But how do Italians really do aperitivo hour? Let’s step into their world. What Is Aperitivo, Really? The word aperitivo comes from the Latin aperire , meaning “to open.” The idea is simple: op

There’s something irresistible about fresh-baked focaccia. With its golden crust, airy interior, and rich olive oil flavor, focaccia is the perfect canvas for both simple and creative toppings. Whether you love it classic and herb-forward or piled high with bold ingredients, this Italian favorite is endlessly versatile—and endlessly delicious. Here’s your guide to building the perfect focaccia topping combination. 1. Keep It Classic: Rosemary & Sea Salt Sometimes the simplest

Barry Lewis/In Pictures/Getty More than beads and parades, Mardi Gras is a celebration rich in history, food, and joyful tradition. Whether you’re a longtime fan or just love a good excuse to feast, here are seven fun facts that bring the spirit of Mardi Gras to life. 1. Mardi Gras Literally Means “Fat Tuesday” The name Mardi Gras comes from French and translates to “Fat Tuesday.” It refers to the last day of indulgence before the season of Lent begins, when people tradition

Valentine’s Day in Fort Bragg is all about slowing down, leaning into the scenery, and spending meaningful time together. With its dramatic coastline, towering redwoods, and cozy dining spots, Fort Bragg offers plenty of ways to turn a simple date into something truly special. Here are a few Valentine’s date ideas to inspire your day. 1. Take a Scenic Coastal Walk Start your Valentine’s Day with a walk along the Mendocino Coast. The Coastal Trail in Fort Bragg offers sweeping

Montgomery Woods State Natural Reserve There’s something quietly magical about stepping into a redwood forest. The air cools, the noise fades, and suddenly you’re surrounded by giants that have been standing for centuries. If you’re visiting Fort Bragg—or lucky enough to live nearby—you’re perfectly positioned for an unforgettable day trip into some of Northern California’s most beautiful redwood groves. Here’s a relaxed, doable guide to exploring the redwoods near Fort Bragg